Formulators are increasingly turning to new ways to use these powerful protein compounds.
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The term “peptide” refers to the scientific name for naturally occurring proteins. All proteins are composed of chains of amino acids, and when these chains are broken down, “short segments of three to five amino acids called peptides form, and these molecules then tell the skin to make more,” explains Krista McKowen, director of media education for BiON. “When incorporated into a skincare regimen, they stimulate the skin’s own production of peptides, synergistically doubling their benefits.”
Most skin cells have built-in receptors that serve to recognize their own peptides, so formulators purposefully synthesize them to mimic the peptide functions that occur naturally within those cells. “The receptor is a keyhole, and the peptide is the ‘key’ to open/activate one specific pathway, such as that to cell regeneration or collagen synthesis,” explains an expert from skincare manufacturer Phytomer. “Only one ‘key’ can open each ‘door.’”
Peptides are king in anti-aging skin care, proven to treat fine lines, wrinkles, sagging, dullness, uneven skin tone and undereye circles, and even to improve skin’s density. Although they have been used in skin care for least 10 years (DAYSPA’s first feature on the subject appeared in 2005), peptide science continues to advance. The fact that the amino acids within peptide compounds are linked affords creative chemists “an infinite choice of combinations to achieve various results,” explains CA Botana founder Dr. Dieter Kuster. The field is essentially limitless when it comes to the employment and combination of various peptide compounds. And that field is booming.
“You can benefit from multiple peptides at once,” affirms Veronica Harris, national educator for DermaQuest. “Our lead chemist found that 12 different peptides worked best for one formula! We always aim to add more peptides as they’re developed.”
Needless to say, skincare pros need to be well versed on these often-confusing varieties of peptide compounds. Below, we break it down for you with a rundown of the peptide forms you’re most likely to see on product labels. Then, leading skincare companies talk about the peptide formulas they’re currently using, why and how they’re using them, and how you can best employ them at your spa.
Read all about peptides in DAYSPA’s Digital Edition of the March issue.
