Rhinestones, canary-yellow eyeshadow and experimentation galore. With the spring/summer 2018 runways continuing to hype bold makeup choices, you may wonder whey should even train your sights on such trends. After all, subtle beauty likely tops client requests at your spa. But what the runways turn out season after season does impact your work, according to Mary Swaab, Colorlab Cosmetics founder and CEO. “Though these looks are created for high impact, they inform the overall feel and texture of the season,” she says.
And being cognizant of current catwalks can bolster your career. “Simply put: Artistic skills evolve when we start to explore unconventional trends,” says Janeena Billera, senior global makeup artist and educator for Glo Skin Beauty. Her rationale: Though a sequin-studded eyelid drew you in, you may find that the supporting elements—perfected skin, beautiful brows and innovative techniques—truly require your focused attention.
Studying runway artistry also keeps your day-to-day work fresh–and talents in demand. “We tend to fall into comfort zones with specific looks and shades,” notes Natalie Soto- Carlisle, global educator for Jane Iredale. “Runway looks can help open you up to an entirely different world of creativity that will distinguish you from your competitors.”
But what if your clients prefer simplicity? “Even if your location only receives requests for subtle daytime looks, learning new techniques and knowing how to achieve them is extremely valuable,” says Soto-Carlisle. “And, truthfully, runway trends allow professionals to bring new designs to loyal clients who would like to update their makeup wardrobe.”
Not to mention, a trickle-down effect can occur if you don’t push yourself. “If you’re feeling bored and uninspired, your clients will feel that way about you too,” theorizes Eddie Giron, makeup artist and Ardell educator. Not to worry: There’s no dearth of exciting beauty trends to challenge you this season. So read up on the following six and find your inspiration!
When lips took on a darker red cast, like at Naeem Khan, a glossy sheen gave the color a spring-ready boost. When painted pouts appeared in a brighter crimson shade, like at Badgley Mischka and Temperley London, a satin matte finish tempered the vivid hue. In most cases, layering colors and finishes boosted dimension—a technique you can pass on to your clients. Teach them the secret to Maybelline makeup lead Erin Parsons’ rosebud lip seen at Naeem Khan: After stacking two creamy matte lipsticks for a pigment-locking base, she added a thick layer of bright red gloss with a dab of darker red smack-dab in the middle of the mouth to conjure a gorgeous 3D plumping effect.
Makeup artists cast glowing golden cheeks, temples and eyelids (as seen at Michael Costello, Fenty x Puma, Versace and Derek Lam) in preparation for sunnier months ahead. Each artist’s spin on the trend had one commonality: copious layering and blending of various luminescent gold mediums. At Michael Costello, Inglot makeup lead Michaela Polaco smoothed a base of liquid highlighter combined with a primer over the whole face, “so that the skin radiates through the makeup and lasts the entire night,” she says. To further “accentuate each girl’s glow,” Polaco then strobed intense golden highlighter from the temples to the apples—an easy skin pick-me-up any client would desire.
Whether multiple hues at Tadashi Shoji and Self-Portrait or a single shade at Tracy Reese and Novis, brightly pigmented eyelids dominated the NYFW runways. MAC makeup lead Pep Gay captured “Summer in Malibu” at Tadashi Shoji by merging three similar colors: a soft wash of teal across the eyelid and lower lash, a concentrated application of shimmering olive around the inner corner of the eye, and a beyond-electric aquamarine eyeliner for the waterline. To mimic the seriously bold canary yellow seen at Novis, NARS makeup lead Uzo stressed basing the eyelid with a concealer or primer, then packing on a loose powder pigment densely near the lash line and sheering it out near the crease. “Anyone can wear a bold yellow eye—and they should,” she says. “Women are more adventurous and playful with color now, so I see yellow as a hot hue for spring eye makeup.”
Forget the light sprinkling of glitter from seasons past: Shimmer will experience a full-blown adventurous streak for spring. From rhinestones (Dries van Noten and Jeremy Scott) and sequins (Francesco Scognamiglio) to glitter-coated lashes (Toga), the runways’ sparkling beauty look begs for experimentation. Thoughtful choices are what make this trend, explains MAC makeup lead Kabuki at the Jeremy Scott show. “Crystal clear rhinestones looked too showgirl, so I chose colors that matched the models’ skin tones,” he says, citing Swarovski Smoked Topaz as a stunning pick for darker skin and Crystal AB as a superior match for fair complexions. Just be sure to arm yourself with eyelash adhesive or spirit gum to keep 3D spangles secure.
When cheeks weren’t practically devoid of color, they boasted a flush peachy bronze– a departure from the rosy pinks that have commanded cheek real estate for the past few seasons. At Nicole Miller, Glamsquad makeup lead Kelli J. Bartlett captured the “Enter the Safari” beauty directive by chiseling cheekbones with a blend of creamy bronzer and topaz-flecked illuminator. “Bronzer is the kind of our hero,” she admits, noting that sticking to cream formulas provides skin with a fresh, youthful appearance. Of course, that doesn’t mean you need to ditch the powder; MAC makeup lead Diane Kendal swirled a soft beige blush powder across apples at the Tory Burch show for the subtle flush that captured the collection’s sporty vibe to a T.
Eyeliner continues to be a makeup medium where artists truly innovate, with new shapes (rounded cat eyes at Tom Ford and Jason Wu), placement (floating liner at Rochas and John Galliano) and stacked color (nude liner on a taupe lid at Jonathan Simkhai, or an electric orange wing over a tangerine sparkle at Delpozo) representing both subtle and wild takes on the style. However, actual eyeliner rarely carried out the final look on the spring runways. At Delpozo, NARS makeup lead Monica Marmo drew a skinny mega-neon cat eye using bright orange theatrical paint. Even beige brow highlighter multitasked as liner at Jonathan Simkhai, where Maybelline makeup lead Erin Parsons painted it along the lash line. The lesson here: Use whatever the lined design calls for!