Our clients care deeply about their skin health and appearance, investing time and money in treatments and products. Yet many of these same clients are reluctant to take the critical step of protecting their skin—and their investment—from daily UV exposure. With 80% to 90% of photoaging caused by UV exposure, sun protection is the bedrock of anti-aging services.
Log in to view the full article
Our clients care deeply about their skin health and appearance, investing time and money in treatments and products. Yet many of these same clients are reluctant to take the critical step of protecting their skin—and their investment—from daily UV exposure. With 80% to 90% of photoaging caused by UV exposure, sun protection is the bedrock of anti-aging services.
The reasons behind guests’ sunscreen reluctance vary but tend to fall into two categories. The first is a lack of perceived need for daily UV protection, and the second is a lack of satisfaction with sunscreen products they’ve tried.
Lecturing doesn’t help, but showing clients how the right sun protection enhances their results and protects the investment they’ve made in their skin gives them the information they need to make the perfect choice to meet their needs. Helping them find a sun protection product they love and that fits with their routine will make all the difference in their willingness to use SPF daily and ultimately keep their skin healthier.
Causes of Photodamage
- “I don’t go out in the sun.”
- “I stay in the shade.”
- “My skin doesn’t burn.”
- “I use SPF in my makeup.”
These are all common reasons why guests may believe they don’t need daily sun protection. Unfortunately, this also demonstrates fundamental misconceptions about UV rays and their role in skin damage.
Photoaging describes changes in the skin that happen after years of exposure to the sun’s UV radiation, such as lines and wrinkles, laxity, dark spots, rough texture, breakdown of collagen and loss of elasticity. Many clients understand UVB rays to be the “burning” rays and UVA rays to be the “aging” rays, but they may not understand why that’s the case.
UVA is 95% of the UV that reaches the earth’s surface, and these rays penetrate deeper into the skin, causing damage that can take years to become visible. Once visible, that damage can be difficult to reverse. Guests should understand that damage occurs without a sunburn—even a tan is a sign of damage.
UVB rays are shorter than UVA and tend to be the culprit behind those painful sunburns. Both UVA and UVB rays play a role in dangerous skin cancers, so broad spectrum protection is critical even for those who never burn.
While UVB rays are strongest in summer and during the middle of the day, UVA rays are with us 365 days a year. They penetrate glass, leading to extra photodamage on our driver’s side, and are the same strength from sunup to sundown all year long. There’s no better reason for using sun protection every single day!
Related: Safe Summer Sun Care Tips
Mineral vs. Chemical
Often, clients know they should wear sun protection every day but aren’t sure which one is best for them. Helping them understand their options makes that decision easier. A great place to start is with sunscreen actives: mineral and chemical.
There are just two mineral sunscreen ingredients: titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. These physical blockers act by reflecting and refracting the sun’s UV rays away from the skin, are not absorbed through the skin and do not enter the bloodstream— they act as tiny shields on the skin’s surface. Zinc oxide in particular is effective against a broader spectrum of UV light than any other sunscreen ingredient, so it can often be used alone.
Mineral sunscreens are gentle and cause very few allergic reactions, making them ideal for sensitive and post-procedure skin. They don’t burn the eyes and are kind to the environment; both are considered reef-friendly.
All other sunscreen ingredients are chemical filters, which act by absorbing the sun’s UV rays and, through a chemical reaction, dissipating them as heat. Unfortunately, some can be absorbed into the body, leading the FDA to request additional safety data.
In addition, chemical sunscreens are a bit harsher on the skin, with most sunscreen allergies being caused by chemical filters, and they can be irritating to the eyes. Oxybenzone and octinoxate have also been found to potentially damage reefs.
Chemical sunscreens tend to be easier to formulate with and historically had better aesthetics than mineral sunscreens, so they are often what is used in makeup, moisturizers, and spray or lotion formats.
But, advances in mineral formulation have enabled manufacturers to eliminate many of the old trade-offs. High quality mineral sunscreens are now available that feel silky rather than sticky, disappear beautifully, work well under makeup and leave no chalky residue. Plus, mineral sunscreens have no telltale odor, so they are perfect for daily use.
The Right Fit
There’s really no secret to helping guests identify their perfect mineral SPF. Once they know the basics—minimum SPF 30, mineral versus chemical, UVA/UVB defense, added antioxidants—the best choice depends on their preferences and use. Offer up these tips to guide them to the right fit.
Check the active ingredients. Turn the product around and look at the Drug Facts label. A pure mineral sunscreen will only have one or two active ingredients: zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide.
Find a formula you love. Not all mineral sunscreens are created equal. Some are silky with a matte finish; others are moisturizing and dewy. A mineral sunscreen that looks and feels the way your client likes, that isn’t sticky or chalky, and that disappears beautifully on the skin is one they’ll enjoy and use as part of their daily routine.
Consider the use and the form. Sunscreens come in many forms. A cream or liquid that moisturizes or doubles as a primer is ideal for daily use on the face. A stick is great for touchups or on the backs of hands, while a lotion or foam is perfect for covering larger body areas. Avoid sprays that can be inhaled or get in their eyes. For those who swim or are active, suggest a water-resistant option.
The hunt for the perfect sun protection may take a little trial sleuthing with product samples, but remind guests that the reward of protecting their skin with a product they enjoy as part of their daily routine is well worth the effort.
Amanda Barretta, esthetician with Tizo Sunscreen and Skincare, has a true passion for all things skin care. She ran her own esthetic business for several years, where she specialized in chemical peels and teenage acne control. Since 2018, Barretta has developed Tizo’s education and training program, growing the way it communicates with its community.
