Holistic practitioners can easily incorporate herbs and other botanicals into skin care practices to benefit the unique needs of each complexion. We are all familiar with using aromatherapeutic essential oils blended with carrier oils for face and body massage. But you can also incorporate botanicals into your facial room in other ways, such as herbal teas, by using infusion and decoction techniques to pull the essential nutrients from various botanical ingredients.
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Holistic practitioners can easily incorporate herbs and other botanicals into skin care practices to benefit the unique needs of each complexion. We are all familiar with using aromatherapeutic essential oils blended with carrier oils for face and body massage. But you can also incorporate botanicals into your facial room in other ways, such as herbal teas, by using infusion and decoction techniques to pull the essential nutrients from various botanical ingredients.
The difference between infusions and decoctions is how long you keep the botanicals in boiling water to extract vital nutrients. Infusions involve steeping them, while decoctions simmer botanicals with more robust cell walls.
Holistic practitioners can use lukewarm tea made using either technique for various steps when working with a client. The tea can be used on cotton discs to remove cleanser, applied as warm herbal compresses and even mixed with powdered clays to create fresh, pore-purifying masks.
You can also combine tea with other powdered botanicals, proteins and minerals to develop specific organic face masks. Herbal tea is wonderful in facial infusion devices, professional oxygen spray machines or aesthetic pulverizers.
I chose to highlight these 10 multitasking botanicals, which can be used to create powerful and fine herbal teas and mists to balance, nourish and heal. These botanicals are very well-researched and known to be effective.
To make your own botanical tea using roots (see burdock or dandelion below), boil them for five minutes to obtain the nutrients for your tea. If you are making herbal tea from dried berries (see rosehips), boil them for one to two minutes or let them steep overnight. If you are making tea from herbal flowers or leaves (see calendula, plantain leaf and others), you can pour boiling water over them before use.
In your facial room, you can brew herbs in an everyday coffee machine by placing a handful in the coffee filter. Make sure to let the tea cool down to a lukewarm temperature before application.
Even if you are not interested in creating your own herbal preparations for spa treatments and facials, it is still essential to understand botanical ingredients because they are incorporated into many of your products. It is also important for your business to educate your clients on the ingredients for the skin care products you offer.
1. Calendula
One of my favorite herbs that can be used for every complexion is calendula. Commonly known as marigold, calendula is an anti-inflammatory herb used in a variety of skin care formulations because of its ability to heal, rejuvenate, soothe and nourish the skin.
Calendula contains flavonoids, triterpenoids, essential oil and polysaccharides, which help disinfect wounds, reduce scarring and accelerate healing after injury or breakouts. This common herb also balances oil production and prevents future blemishes, making calendula extremely helpful for healing acne.
The vibrant yellow color of calendula flowers indicates the presence of carotenoids, a precursor of retinol (vitamin A), which helps minimize wrinkles and firm the skin. Not only can this ingredient be used topically, but drinking a cup of calendula tea every day will support a healthy complexion and ward off colds and flus at the same time!1
2. Yarrow
As an anti-inflammatory herb, yarrow is extremely therapeutic for those with acne or rosacea. Not only does it calm breakouts, but yarrow also reduces pathogens with its mild antiseptic properties, and can reduce acne scarring, too.
It balances the complexion by eliminating excess oils, which benefits all skin types. Overall, this herb has powerful soothing and calming properties.2
3. Burdock Root
Commonly found in our backyards, burdock root is another herb that soothes, detoxifies and improves skin metabolism. The cooling and calming effects of burdock root are beneficial for those with acne-prone complexions, and burdock is a favorite among herbalists for treating acne from the inside out, as well.
Burdock root is very versatile when it comes to skin and body care. Combine it with dandelion tea to create a powerful cleansing and healing tonic. Burdock also contains tannins, essential fatty acids and vitamins that promote hair growth, making it a useful herb for scalp massages.3
4. Tremella Mushroom
Also called snow mushrooms, tremella mushrooms have outstanding hydrating properties thanks to high concentrations of ceramides and polysaccharides, which help retain moisture. This mushroom has an even better water-holding capacity than hyaluronic acid (HA); in fact, tremella mushrooms hold about five times more water than HA! If HA is known as the “youth molecule,” then tremella mushrooms must have super youth powers.
These mushrooms also lighten hyperpigmentation, age spots and acne scars by inhibiting melanin production. When it comes to skin brightening, tremella mushrooms can be more effective than vitamin C and kojic acid.4
5. Spirulina
The name spirulina comes from the Latin word for “helix” or “spiral,” because it’s composed of swirling, microscopic strands of blue-green algae. Organic spirulina is widely available to skin care professionals and is very effective in cleansers and other treatment products.
Spirulina is a powerful beauty ingredient that benefits all complexions because of its harmonious bouquet of essential amino acids, proteins and anti-aging phytonutrients. It nourishes skin with essential fatty acids, B vitamins (like B1, B2, B3, B6 and B9) and the famous beauty vitamins C, D and E. It contains nucleic acids (RNA and DNA) and many natural pigments like chlorophyll-a, xanthophyll and beta-carotene.
Spirulina also helps detoxify and calm the complexion with its alkalizing and oxygenating properties, making it extremely helpful when neutralizing skin’s pH after acid peels.5
6. St. John’s Wort
You may be surprised to see St. John’s wort in this list because many have only heard of this herb’s ability to relieve stress and naturally reduce symptoms of depression. However, this beautiful, flowery plant also has many topical benefits!
St. John’s wort has strong antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and healing properties. It can be used to treat wounds and bruises because it boosts blood flow to the affected area, which accelerates the healing process. This herb is beneficial for those with acne-prone and inflamed complexions, and herbalists have also used it in preparations for hypopigmentation and vitiligo.6
7. Rosehips
The highest natural concentrations of beauty nutrients, such as vitamin B, vitamin C and beta-carotene (precursor of vitamin A) can be found in rosehips. Whole plant extracts containing these key vitamins also contain an array of other supportive micronutrients that help the vitamins perform better in lower concentrations, preventing skin reactions or irritation commonly caused by synthetic versions.
Rosehips are the perfect way to encourage cell regeneration and soothe redness naturally. They are also used in skin care products to exfoliate, polish and brighten. Their antioxidant properties are especially helpful for reducing hyperpigmentation and other discolorations, as well as firming and nourishing the skin.
Further, drinking rosehip tea rejuvenates the complexion from the inside out and supports immune function, too!7
8. Arnica
Arnica is a plant that has historically been applied topically to treat bruises, wounds, pain and inflammation. Since the 1500s, arnica has been used by people worldwide, including Europeans and Native Americans, who used it to soothe muscle aches, reduce inflammation and heal wounds. To this day, arnica is often the first natural remedy people choose to treat injuries.
Because of these properties, arnica is an essential ingredient for inflamed and reactive complexions. It can be used in skin care to heal bruises and scars caused by cystic or hormonal acne, as well. The plant’s ability to decrease inflammation and increase circulation helps to speed the healing process and ease the discomfort associated with it.8
9. Plantain Leaf
For centuries, plantain leaves have been considered remedies for wounds, inflammation, bites and other skin irritations. Commonly found along the side of the road, plantain leaves can be plucked and immediately used to treat wounds by rubbing the backside of the leaf against the skin to disinfect, reduce inflammation and heal.
These properties make it a beneficial herb for acne-prone, inflamed and sensitive complexions when used in teas, masks and other skin care products. You can even place the leaves directly in hot water, wait for them to soften and apply them directly to the skin using gentle massaging motions.9
10. Red Clover
Skin-restoring and hormone-balancing botanicals like red clover benefit those with more mature complexions because they contain natural plant estrogen, or isoflavones. Plant estrogen improves skin in numerous ways, including stimulating natural collagen production, increasing thickness and retaining moisture.
Red clover can be used topically or orally in tinctures (as opposed to dry capsules) because it enters the bloodstream and works more efficiently to improve the complexion from the inside out. Red clover increases circulation and is full of nutrients such as vitamin C, magnesium and potassium, promoting an even and glowing complexion! It is also great for treating irritated and acne-prone complexions because it reduces skin discoloration.10
References:
- Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center. Calendula. Last Updated August 25, 2020. https://www.mskcc.org/cancer-care/integrative-medicine/herbs/calendula; Chatterjee, S., Kataruka, A., Mukherjee, S., Adhikari, A., & Bhattacharjee, A. A Review on Medicinal Benefits and Applicability of Herbal Ingredients in Cosmeceuticals. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Science Invention, Vol. 11(3) (2022).
- Mount Sinai. Health Library: Yarrow. Date Accessed January 11, 2023. https://www.mountsinai.org/health-library/herb/yarrow
- Miglani A, Manchanda RK. Observational study of Arctium lappa in the treatment of acne vulgaris. Homeopathy. 103(3):203-207. (2014). doi:10.1016/j.homp.2013.12.002
- Shahrajabian, M. Hesam & Sun, Wenli & Shen, Hong & Cheng, Qi. Chemical compounds and health benefits of Tremella, a valued mushroom as both cuisine and medicine in ancient China and modern era. Amazonian Journal of Plant Research. 4. 692-697 (2020).
- Ragusa, I., Nardone, G. N., Zanatta, S., Bertin, W., & Amadio, E. Spirulina for skin care: A bright blue future. Cosmetics, 8(1), 7 (2021); Yang H-N, Lee E-H, Kim H-M. “Spirulina platensis inhibits anaphaylactic reaction.” Life Sciences. 1997;61(13):1237–1244. [PubMed] [Google Scholar: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0024320597006681]
- National Center for Complementary and Integrative Health (NCCIH). Health Information: St. John’s Wort (Last Updated October 2020). https://www.nccih.nih.gov/health/st-johns-wort
- Jenkins, G., Etheridge, C. J., & Mason, P. (2022). “Herbal Infusions and Women’s Health: A Review of Findings with a Focus on Human Studies on Specific Infusions with Studies on Extracts to Evaluate Mechanisms.” Journal of Nursing and Women’s Health, 6(178), 2577-1450. https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/c655/2f355bc3ff224141112b4e9ae07faaab02f9.pdf
- Goyal, A., Sharma, A., Kaur, J., Kumari, S., Garg, M., Sindhu, R. K., ... & Abdel-Daim, M. M. (2022). “Bioactive-based cosmeceuticals: an update on emerging trends.” Molecules, 27(3), 828.
- Adom, M.B., Taher, M., Mutalabisin, M.F., Amri, M.S., Abdul Kudos, M.B., Wan Sulaiman, M.W.A., et al. Susanti, D. (2017). Chemical constituents and medical benefits of Plantago major. Biomedicine & Pharmacotherapy, 96, 348–360. http://doi.org/10.1016/j.biopha.2017.09.152
- National Center for Complementary and Integrative Health (NCCIH). Health Information: Red Clover (Last Updated October 2020). https://www.nccih.nih.gov/health/red-clover; Mount Sinai. Health Library: Red Clover. Date Accessed January 11, 2023. https://www.mountsinai.org/health-library/herb/red-clover#:~:text=Modern%20scientific%20tests%20have%20shown,%2C%20cardiovascular%20health%2C%20and%20osteoporosis.
Elina Fedotova is the founder and chief formulator of Elina Organics, offering award-winning organic formulations since 1998. Her product line is handmade in small batches using holistic principles. Fedotova is also president of the Association of Holistic Skin Care Practitioners.