It's no secret that our skin is more exposed to the elements during the summer. Higher temperatures, sweat, air conditioning and increased exposure to the sun all contribute to the excess dryness and increased hyperpigmentation in skin.
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It's no secret that our skin is more exposed to the elements during the summer. Higher temperatures, sweat, air conditioning and increased exposure to the sun all contribute to the excess dryness and increased hyperpigmentation in skin.
The result of all these factors is that skin can look dull. One of the easiest ways to brighten the complexion and reduce hyperpigmentation from the summer sun is to exfoliate.
There are two primary types of exfoliation products on the market: chemical and physical exfoliants. Chemical exfoliants contain various acids, enzymes and extracts that dissolve dead skin cells in the outermost layer of skin, making it look younger and brighter. They may also help reduce the formation of future pigmentation.
Physical exfoliants are particles that rub against the skin to physically slough off the dead skin cells. This makes skin look smooth, soft and bright.
It’s important to select the right exfoliant for your clients, so follow these tips when you guide your clients’ summer exfoliation regimens.
Ideal Chemical Exfoliants
My favorite ingredients for summer exfoliation are various chemical exfoliants, such as lactic, tartaric and malic acids. These naturally derived alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) work wonders to dissolve surface dead skin cell buildup on the face.
I prefer fruit-based acids over a traditional acid like glycolic because they are a little larger in size, but small enough to be able to penetrate the skin. This makes them suitable for all skin types.
Although the word acid sounds like it can be harsh, most acid-based products are gentle enough to be used a few times a week, depending on skin type. I recommend clients use them at night and alternating nights.
If your guest’s skin is prone to breakouts, exfoliating in the summer is a must. Excess sweat combined with excess dead cell buildup creates the perfect storm for breakouts. Bacteria lines the pores and acne-causing bacteria feed on sebum. When the sebum is trapped in the pores by dead skin cells, that bacteria can create a pustule or breakout.
I recommend an AHA exfoliant one to two times per week to remove dead skin that can potentially clog pores. You can even add an exfoliating product that contains a BHA like salicylic acid. This acid is oil soluble, so it can penetrate the pores and help remove any clogged oil. Additionally, salicylic acid can help exfoliate skin. This combination is a great way to prevent a breakout from even forming in the first place!
Body Exfoliation
Exfoliation is important for the body, too. And, since more skin is generally exposed in summer, it's a great time to treat the whole body.
Skin on the body is more resilient than skin on the face, so I recommend both chemical and physical exfoliants. A physical, gritty scrub mixed with a chemical acid is the perfect combination.
Look for a scrub with pumice and glycolic acid. Pumice is finely ground volcanic rock; while it can be too aggressive on facial skin, it’s the perfect particle for buffing away dead skin on the body. Remind guests to avoid more delicate areas, like the decollete. Meanwhile, the glycolic acid breaks up the surface dead skin cells as the pumice buffs them away.
Any acid will do, but not any physical exfoliant will do. Choose larger particles that are harder, so they can actually buff the dull skin away. Strawberry seeds, poppy seeds, jojoba esters and alumina are ideal choices. I like to stay away from nut kernel exfoliants like walnut or apricot, since they tend to have a jagged shape that may irritate skin.
Related: Exfoliation 101: How to Effectively Exfoliate the Face and Body
Hydrate & Protect
Regardless of face or body, it’s important to follow any exfoliation with hydration. On the face, use a hydrating toner and nourishing moisturizer.
For the body, lotion is great, but an oil on top is an added bonus! Applying an occlusive barrier to seal the skin helps prevent its natural moisture content from evaporating and causing more dryness.
It’s also critical to wear SPF during the day and stay out of sun during peak hours, especially when exfoliating. This is because newly exposed skin is very sensitive to sun, increasing the risk of sunburn and premature aging. Look for a minimum SPF 30 and apply it generously.
Seasonal Considerations
It’s very important not to overdo exfoliation, especially during the summer. If your client’s skin feels at all compromised or irritated, tell them this is not the time to exfoliate. Instead, build up and restore their skin barrier by using a nourishing or hydrating mask on the face, or a thick moisturizer and oil on the body.
In the summer, there is one type of exfoliation I don’t recommend for most individuals: chemical peels. This professional treatment is wonderful for deep exfoliation, and it may or may not cause skin to slough off like a snake. The increased flaking is due to stronger concentrations of acids that can be used singularly or blended. Additionally, some peels contain enzymes that physically eat dead skin to remove it, like papain or pear enzyme.
When it is fall or winter and we’re not exposed to as much sun or heat, this is great! However, there is a lot of new skin exposed after this type of peel since the acids are much stronger, which can be problematic in the summer when there is more sun exposure. Exposing this young skin to heat and sun can lead to irritation, excess inflammation, more hyperpigmentation and irreversible damage to cellular DNA.
If you can be certain your guest will avoid direct sun exposure, extreme heat and humidity, then it can be a great tool. However, I always recommend doing a peel in the spring to peel away the dry winter skin and prep it for summer. I also love a peel series in the fall to reverse the sun damage they might have endured during the summer.
Exfoliation is an important step in any skin care routine all year long. It's always important to re-evaluate the season and how it impacts guests’ individual skin concerns, as well as the products they use at home. Summer is a great season to start implementing this habit!
Emily Sindlinger, co-founder of botanical skin care line Sorella Apothecary, is a skilled educator with 14 years of experience in the spa industry. She started Lime Spa as a one-room rental and grew it into a successful five-room spa, discovering her passion for mentoring estheticians and helping them achieve their skin dreams and business goals. Sindlinger now focuses on training Sorella’s team and leading product development.
