The Skincare Benefits of Dermaplaning

Spa-goers are clamoring for this noninvasive, deeply exfoliating service.


dermaplaning-exfoliation[Image: Getty Images]

Although it has been used in conjunction with medical skin care for several decades, dermaplaning is experiencing a surge in popularity among spa-goers—both as a complement to facials and on its own. Typically performed on a monthly basis, the noninvasive treatment involves the use of a sterile surgical scalpel to manually remove vellus hair (aka peach fuzz) and thoroughly exfoliate the face, yielding a healthy glow and allowing topical products to be more easily absorbed.

With the exception of clients in the midst of an active acne outbreak, as well as anyone with an autoimmune disorder that compromises the complexion, people with practically any skin type are good candidates for dermaplaning. Even those with rosacea or sensitive skin can benefit in both the short- and long-term, as the procedure gently and painlessly removes surface layers of dead skin for instant smoothness and radiance, while promoting cell regeneration over time. “It’s so beneficial for patients with sun damage, fine lines, and dehydrated or dull skin, plus it helps minimize uneven texture and superficial acne scarring,” says Enilsa Brown, owner of Enilsa Skin Essentials Acne & Anti-Aging Clinic in Killeen, Texas.

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Gliding the scalpel over the skin at a 45 degree angle, Brown says she can remove anywhere from four to eight layers, which parallels the number of strokes she uses. “It’s a technical procedure that is operator dependent,” she continues. “You really need to know the client’s skin type, and do a very thorough consult about factors including lifestyle and medication.” Her Standard Dermaplaning service (60 min./$85) includes a cleanse, mask, moisturizer and sunscreen, as well.

Since most of Brown’s patients are seeing her to treat their acne, she often combines Standard or Advanced Dermaplaning (60 min./$125)—which adds lactic acid, a targeted serum and hydrating eye treatment to the standard version—with services like laser hair removal, microdermabrasion, chemical peels or a HydraFacial. She notes that dermaplaning pairs perfectly with these offerings, because it exfoliates so thoroughly that complementary treatments work on the new skin rather than fighting to penetrate dead skin cells. Afterward, Brown’s clients consistently rave about the immediate results, commenting on how smooth their skin looks and how easily their makeup goes on. “It’s instant gratification,” she says.

Emily Davis, LE, resident esthetician at Color Up Therapeutics CBD Wellness Center and owner of Stratum Aesthetics in Denver, has received similar feedback from guests who receive the Dermaplane Treatment (60 min./$90). “It’s a full dermaplane facial, which includes a double cleanse to effectively remove all traces of makeup, sweat, oil and pollution. A CBD facial oil is applied before dermaplaning to act as a buffer and protect the skin,” explains Davis. Light extractions, a circulation-boosting CBD face massage, and cooling jelly mask complete the service.

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In the seven years since she started offering the procedure, Davis has noticed a continual rise in its popularity—and a comparable decline in microdermabrasion. “I recommend dermaplaning to everyone,” she says, reporting that approximately half of her clients opt to add it to their regular facials. Davis says that it’s easy to perform with low overhead costs, and that some guests tell her it’s the only procedure that doesn’t leave their skin red or irritated. “I’ve even had clients say they’re grateful for the facial hair removal without the trauma of waxing,” she notes.

Guests visiting Ara Spa Services in Thompson’s Station, Tennessee, can try dermaplaning three ways: the Dermaplane Express (30 min./$60) involves a quick cleanse, tone, dermaplane and customized finishing cream; Dermaplane Glow (60 min./$90) includes a cleanse, tone, dermaplane, massage, mask and moisturizer; and a Dermaplane Facial Add-On (20-25 min./$50) simply incorporates the procedure as part of a facial’s exfoliation. Although a lot of estheticians perform the service on dry skin, Ara owner Jessica Moreton uses a special serum tailored to each client’s complexion. “This cuts down on potential nicking and discomfort,” she says. Her guests are always impressed with how smooth and soft their skin feels afterward. “They look in the mirror and say, ‘Wow, I can’t believe it!’ They’re smiling and radiant,” she enthuses. “People want that healthy glow, and they appreciate that they don’t have to worry about a reaction. It’s a very simple procedure with dramatic results.

—Hilary Daninhirsch

This story first appeared in the August issue of DAYSPA Magazine. To receive the magazine, click here to subscribe.

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