Busting Acne Myths for Clear, Healthy Skin

Jun 3rd, 2024

Healthy skin is happy skin. See how you can get your acneic clients to achieve clear and healthy skin.

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Most of us have dealt with breakouts at some point in our lives. Whether it manifests as the occasional, pesky pimple or a persistent issue (acne), clients are bound to seek professional expertise in taming this frustrating condition. Though various types of acne can have different causes, the treatment approach often remains the same – decrease oil production, increase exfoliation, and kill bacteria through topicals or internal medications such as antibiotics. This regimen suits some, but not all. Let’s discuss what acne is and the myths surrounding it, while also exploring some holistic methods for treating it.

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Breaking Down Breakouts

Acne is a skin condition that can greatly impact self-esteem and is often accompanied by physically painful blemishes. While many people are aware of the self-esteem-related effects of acne, the importance of treating acne extends beyond the skin’s surface. Acne is an inflammatory disease of the skin requiring careful, considerate treatment.¹

Acne affects the pores and pilosebaceous system, which is made up of the follicle, hair shaft and sebaceous gland.² Acne is formed when an excess production of sebum, dead skin cells or harmful microbes colonize the skin. The accumulation of sebum and dead skin cells gathers in a pore or hair follicle, creating a blockage. This leads to a low oxygen environment, creating a perfect habitat for microbes to cause an infection.³

The end-result is the formation of small, raised, red bumps, and sometimes large, inflamed nodules throughout the skin, as well as congested pores. After the blemishes have disappeared, scarring can remain.

Acne Causes

Other factors, such as genetics and hormonal fluctuations, also influence this condition.

Hormones

Hormones influence acne at all ages. Hormonal fluctuations can increase sebum production, leading to breakouts. Beyond being an annoyance for oily skin types, sebum is beneficial in maintaining the skin’s moisture barrier and providing protection from harmful environmental factors and microbes.⁴ Hormonal fluctuations can also change the balance of components that make up sebum, such as fatty acids, triglycerides and wax esters. Hormones also influence cellular turnover rates and the skin’s inflammatory response, which leads to congested pores and potential infection.⁵

It’s no secret that many teens struggle with acne. Like hormonal acne, teen acne is caused by changing hormones affecting sebum production.6 The difference is that these breakouts are closely associated with puberty and will clear at the onset of adulthood. Additionally, teen acne is more prevalent for males, while hormonal acne more commonly affects women. Teen acne can appear on the face, neck, chest and back, while adult acne is more often localized to the face.

Additional triggers for hormonal acne can include:

Toxin & Pollution Exposure. Toxins and pollutants are tiny particles small enough to penetrate skin follicles. These particles cause irritation and an inflammatory response from the immune system that can lead to breakouts in the skin. Some of these particles also mimic estrogen.⁷ Categorized as “xenoestrogens,” these can trigger hormonal changes in the body leading to breakouts.⁸

Increased Stress Levels. Stress causes elevated levels of the hormone cortisol, which can also trigger breakouts.

Food Allergies & Other Autoimmune Disorders. Food allergies and autoimmune disorders may cause inflammation and affect organs and glands responsible for hormonal regulation. For example, those with celiac disease (an allergy/auto immune response to gluten) may also suffer from an autoimmune disorder of the thyroid called Hashimoto’s disease, which can also cause acne.^9,10

Related: Touching Clients With Acne

Harmful Microbes

It is generally understood that bacteria overgrowth can cause acne, but there are other less-known microbes that can influence the condition, each with unique treatments to address them.

Fungal. While bacteria are the most discussed harmful microbe causing acne, fungal acne is garnering increased attention. Fungal acne occurs when a build-up of yeast species called Malassezia causes infection within the hair follicle, resulting in clusters of small, red, itchy bumps.^11,12Though many forms of acne can cause itching, it’s particularly prevalent in fungal acne. Humidity, excessive sweating, the use of hot tubs, previous fungal infections and skin care products with certain oils frequently exacerbate this form of acne.¹¹Fungal acne can exist alongside other varieties, but requires a separate treatment plan. Fungal acne is best addressed through antifungal agents.11 While there are some over-the-counter antifungal options, the most effective options are prescribed by a medical professional. If you suspect your client is dealing with fungal acne, direct them to consult a physician.

Demodex Mites. Demodex mites are a species of mite that can be part of the skin's natural flora. Though they don’t cause traditional “acne,” an infestation of demodex mites in the skin can cause a condition called demodicosis or demodicidosis that mimics other types of acne.¹³ Many traditional antibiotic and topical treatments will not resolve the infection caused by demodex mites, so it’s best to direct these clients to a medical professional.

Myths About Acne

There is a lot of misinformative floating around about acne, and you and your clients will want to avoid following unfounded advice. Here are some common myths about acne.

Acne is caused by poor hygiene. Research has found no evidence to suggest that there is a link between acne and poor hygiene alone.¹⁴ In fact, excessive or aggressive washing can make acne worse, as it can lead to follicular rupture.¹⁴
It only affects teens. Many, but not all of those who experience teen acne find that it resolves by adulthood. In fact, some people experience acne throughout their lives, with up to 73.3% of adults dealing with breakouts at some point.¹⁵
Avoid moisturizers, all oils and sunscreen on acne prone skin. Because excess oil can be the culprit behind acne, some believe skipping their moisturizer and sunscreen will solve the problem. However, skin deprived of hydration will often overproduce oil to compensate, leading to further breakouts.¹⁶ Moisturizers can contain acne-busting ingredients that offer a reprieve from symptoms.¹⁷ When it comes to sun care, layering on the SPF can reduce breakouts.¹² This is especially important for clients seeking acne treatments that increase solar sensitivity.
Acne is just a cosmetic issue. The effects of acne are highly visible. However, its effects are also felt more holistically by many. The physical discomfort and the scarring acne can leave behind can also impact a person’s emotional well-being, with many sufferers reporting embarrassment, low self-esteem and decreased confidence.¹⁸

How to Manage Acne

The good news is that there are many ingredients you can use to help alleviate acne and its symptoms. Consider incorporating the following into treatments for those with acneic skin:

A gentle, yet effective ingredient to keep the follicles clear, control oil and relieve inflammation is encapsulated salicylic acid. Encapsulation allows for a time release effect helping avoid irritation that commonly occurs with traditional salicylic acid.
Look for skin care products with botanicals like basil, rosemary, cinnamon, tea tree and sage that have natural antiseptic and antimicrobial properties. These can help address different types of acne.
For those experiencing excess sebum production or congested skin, consider black seed oil, which can balance sebum to prevent clogging in pores. This botanical ingredient can also help even out skin tone to reduce post-acne scarring.
Pre-, pro- and postbiotics support the skin’s microbiome, keeping the barrier function of the skin strong to defend against potential pathogens and antagonists of acne, such as pollutants, toxins and allergens.¹⁹

In addition, physicians and integrative health practitioners can also prescribe oral medications and supplements to address acne, ideally used in conjunction with skin care. Acne has a reputation for being stubborn, which is certainly well-earned. However, with your additional knowledge on the types of acne, the causes and the myths surrounding this condition, you’ll be well prepared to answer client questions. Paired with your expertise and these acne-busting ingredients, you can help each client achieve the clear, smooth skin they desire.

References:

Brian Goodwin is an award-winning international educator for Éminence Organic Skin Care. As a master medical esthetician, master herbalist and consultant, Goodwin leverages more than 15 years of spa industry experience to bring fun, engaging education to spa professionals around the world.